Without a tuning slide you’ll have to compensate for this sharpening effect by adjusting your blowing angle across the embouchure hole. Thanks to Henrik Norbeck for this explanation.) Because sound actually moves faster through warm air than cold, the flute becomes sharper in pitch as it warms up. But after playing for a few minutes, your breath starts to warm the flute, allowing the air column’s temperature to approach that of your body. (Here’s why: when you start blowing warm air into a cold flute, the instrument’s cool walls reduce the temperature of the air column inside it. Some flutes come with tuning slides others (usually less expensive models) do not.Ī flute that is in tune with other instruments at the beginning of a session will gradually become sharper as you play. If you want to play regularly with other musicians, a tuning slide-the bit of metal tubing in the head joint that allows the flute’s head to be pushed in or out-is recommended. (Blocks are fairly easy to replace in most cases, so this is not a major worry I’ve never had any problems with the blocks on any of my own flutes.) Post-mounted keywork, in which the keys are attached to little metal posts, are the alternative. But keep in mind that the wooden blocks are theoretically susceptible to cracking and shrinking with age. Many people feel that block-mounted keywork is more aesthetically pleasing, and that’s what most modern makers offer. With keyed flutes, you have a choice between post-mounted and block-mounted keys. If you think post-mounted keys are ugly, check out this detail of a lovely Rudall and Rose flute from about 1850.
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